Have you ever heard of the Sierra de Tejeda? This mountain range between Malaga and Granada in Southern Spain provides some of the best walking in Andalucia. Hike along ancient trails through Moorish villages rich in Mudejar architecture, across Roman bridges and through ancient oak woods, before resting and recharging in whitewashed villages that cling to the hillsides, as they have done for centuries, loomed over by surprisingly mountainous backdrops.

In this article, we’ll provide you with a guide to hiking in Andalucia’s remoter regions, answering common questions and providing some top tips to plan your next walking holiday in Spain.

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Andalucia: Hiking in Spain’s Wild South

Walking in Andalucia offers a mix of natural and man-made splendour and rugged mountain beauty, much of it off the beaten track. While the Pyrenees and the Dolomites are now high-profile destinations for summer walkers, some of southern Spain’s sierras remain largely undiscovered by walkers. But there’s plenty of reasons for a walking holiday here. Many trails enjoy complete tranquillity with infrequent encounters with other walkers. Authentic whitewashed villages boast rich Moorish culture, through culinary traditions, architecture and other local customs. As for the landscape, you can expect rocky limestone ridges, enchanting woodland, and deep river gorges crossed by ancient Roman bridges, whilst terraced farmland is dominated by attractive olive groves.

The dramatic region of the Sierra de Tejeda forms the backbone of our guided walking holiday in Andalucia. The name ‘Tejeda’ refers to the abundance of Taxus baccata (Yew Trees), which populate peaks, such as La Maroma, the region’s highest mountain. Our daily guided walks.

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What to expect from Walking in Andalucia?

Walking in Andalucia is fundamentally different from walking in the Alps. There are no glaciers, no high-altitude cable cars, and no rifugios (mountain lodges) every few kilometres. What you get instead are ancient mule tracks worn smooth over centuries, rocky ridgelines with coastal views that stretch as far as Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, forested ravines full of birdsong, and village paths that haven’t changed much since the Moors were here.

Trails range from well-maintained mountain paths to trails on more rugged terrain on the higher routes. The daily walks on our guided Andalucia holiday typically cover 8–12km with ascents of between 200-500m. On the trails, keep your eyes peeled for some of the region’s airborne locals, including Bonelli’s eagle, booted eagle, griffon vulture, and kingfishers. On the ground, you can spot various mammals, including mountain goat and genet.

This is not necessarily a destination for the unfit, but it suits walkers with an intermediate level of fitness with some experience of walking on uneven terrain. For easier beginner-friendly walking holidays, we recommend this article about the Italian Dolomites written by our founder, Tom Collett.

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When is the best time to walk in Andalucia?

Similar to Tuscany, we recommend the shoulder seasons of Spring and Autumn when temperatures are perfect for walking. We offer our guided walking holidays in Andalucia in April & May as well as September & October, each season having a distinct charm:

  • Spring (April–May) is when Andalucia is at its most vivid. The mountain landscapes erupt with wildflowers  lavender, rosemary, peonies and orchids carpeting the hillsides. The air is clear and the temperatures  pleasantly cool (14°C to 27°C degrees). Birdlife is spectacular during this season and the views, unobscured by summer haze, can stretch all the way to Morocco’s Atlas Mountains on a clear day.
  • Autumn (September–October) brings a different kind of beauty, as the sun changes its angle in the sky, casting a wondrous golden light, for which southern Andalucia is famous. It brings joy to every walk with every ridge and valley looking tantalisingly photogenic. Our autumn departure is particularly popular, as walkers extend their summers in this heavenly hidden gem.

We are based in the white-washed village of Canillas de Albaida. It has been our base for many years, and it provides a guided holiday that is perfect for spring and autumn, two seasons that offer plenty of Mediterranean sunshine.

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Where to go walking in Andalucia?

Our walking base is the charming village of Canillas de Albaida, on the edge of the Sierra de Tejeda. Comprising part of one of several typical Andalucian Pueblos Blancos (‘White Towns’), which ring the edge of the national parks, Canillas is the perfect springboard for walking in Andalucia with numerous trailheads starting directly from the village. When we venture a little further afield, transport is arranged the starting points within the national park. Your week here is hosted by our good friend and long-standing guide, Mick Smith, who knows the area intimately. Early each evening over a pre-dinner aperitif, an informal and relaxed ‘Office Hour’ takes place where he explains each day’s itinerary, so guests can enjoy dinner with everything sorted for the next day.

You are based at the charming Villa La Posada, perched on the hillside of Canillas providing you with wonderful views of the surrounding peaks. The villa has 7 ensuite, air-conditioned bedrooms, all furnished in the typical Spanish way, simple yet attractive. A large, comfortable guest lounge opens out to a terrace with an 8 metre swimming pool. Together with their team, the owners Gustavo and Denisa provide a warm, enthusiastic welcome and friendly hospitality. There is a daily continental breakfast, and each evening (except Wednesdays) they provide a three-course dinner with complimentary wine. It’s only a short stroll (300m) to the village square, where you can enjoy a drink with fellow Collett’s guests at an authentically Andalucian bodega after a day of walking.

Some highlights surrounding Canillas include the extraordinary Nerja Caves, a vast network of prehistoric caverns, the old Moorish village of Salares and the spectacular “cahorros” in the Chíllar River, a very narrow canyon carved out of the rock. So, let’s take a close look at the walks that take you close to these sights…

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The Best Walks in Andalucia

Our guided walk programme is largely built around five exceptional walks that encapsulate the highlights of the Sierra de Tejeda. Over the years, each walk has been refined by our guide, Mick Smith. Mick has spent almost 30 years hiking the trails of a region, in which limited waymarking makes self-guiding difficult. He is highly knowledgeable and charmingly affable, so every excursion with him is enhanced by fascinating detail, from the botanical to the architectural.

Archez & Cueva de Agua Circular

12km – 4 hours walking – 450m ascent/descent
This walk takes you through the sleepy, step-back-in-time village of Archez before traversing the avocado plantations that border Competa with its vibrant atmosphere, cafes and tapas bars. It’s the perfect walk to begin your holiday, allowing you to chat with fellow walkers whilst soaking in the first panoramic views of the region.

The Hidden Village of Salares

8km – 4 hours walking – 775m ascent/descent (option to extend by 5km)

This route descends out of Canillas on an old Roman path, crossing an ancient Genoese bridge before traversing a landscape of avocado and citrus groves. We then continue uphill on a mule track to the summit of Fogarate, a hilltop lookout that lies in the shadow of the lofty peak of La Maroma. After taking in the fabulous views, we follow the valley along an irrigation canal to the old Moorish village of Salares. We wander through the steep, winding streets of this picturesque village and have the option of lunch in Theo’s Bar, a simple but special experience. We return to Canillas by private transfer.

 

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The Abandoned Village of Acebuchal

 9km – 5 hours walking – 625m ascent/descent
This circular hike is quite simply a beautiful day out in a quiet and secluded valley. This is quintessential Andalucía and it will surely be a highlight of your stay. The descent into the abandoned village of Acebuchal is a fascinating focal point of the day.

El Saltillo

10km – 5 hours walking – 420m ascent/descent
Arguably, the best is saved until last. This is a dramatic linear walk, following the natural and man-made waterways that run off the mountains to the traditional hillside villages. It takes in spectacular steep ravines and at times follows narrow pathways, all with superb views of La Maroma (2069m), the highest peak of the Sierra de Tejeda.

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Andalucia High EDIT Photo 07-01-2015 12 40 40
Andalucia High EDIT Photo 07-01-2015 12 40 40

A Guided Walking Holiday in Andalucia

Have we inspired you to think Andalucia? Our guided walking holidays are the perfect blend of invigorating walks in stunning landscapes, expert guidance and hospitality from our local guide, plus many conversations with fellow walkers in a relaxed atmosphere. Finally, there’s plenty of opportunity to enjoy Andalucia’s impressive cuisine and viniculture.

Your guide throughout is Mick Smith, a qualified mountain leader with years of experience in the Sierra de Tejeda. Mick’s knowledge of the landscape is deep and genuinely infectious. He knows where the best view points are, the historic or cultural significance of a certain landmark, and which diversion to make to see griffon vultures circling overhead. Group sizes are deliberately kept small to preserve a relatively intimate atmosphere and to ensure every guest gets the most from their time with Mick.

“We had an amazing time! Our walking week in Andalucia was one of the most interesting and fun activity holidays we have had! We had a brilliant guide in Mick who is a highly experienced group leader and has a wealth of knowledge of this national park region. Gustavo and his team were excellent hosts and we were well provided for in terms of food and accommodation. We found Collett’s to be a well organised company. They were very helpful and flexible with rescheduling when we had to rearrange our dates.” – Jennifer, recent Collett’s guest

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